Why Seminyak?
With a mountainous, lush interior and a coastline crowded with swells
for rookies as well as seasoned surfers, the island of Bali serves up
almost year-round excuses to visit. Yet, despite the onslaught of
sightseers bringing cultural influences from diverse corners of the
world, locals continue to attend to their stunning temples and graceful
daily rituals.
On the popular southern side of the island, with the Indian Ocean
lapping at its shore, a coastal spot is garnering more attention for its
gentrification. Seminyak has transformed in the past decade from a
stretch of sleepy rice paddies into a hip spot boasting some of the
island's best restaurants, hotels and boutiques. It's the upmarket
antidote to nearby Kuta, notorious for its girly bars and relentless
touts.
The best time to visit is from May to September, when the humidity
drops and temperatures range from the mid-20s to mid-30s° Celsius. Party
season peaks in August. If you don't mind sporadic waves of torrential
rain, there are still picture-perfect days earlier in the year.
Find your feet
One of thousands of islands in the Indonesian archipelago, Bali is
surrounded by coral reefs, which are perfect for snorkelling trips. Its
tropical landscape has kilometres of twisting roads that lead inland to
extinct volcanic craters and hot mineral springs. Seminyak stretches
only a few kilometres along the southern coastline, with small
neighbouring areas such as Petitenget within its boundaries.
The streets of Seminyak are narrow and winding, hence the popularity
of motorbikes. To the north, it's one of the last of the built-up
tourist zones on that side of the island. To the south is manicured Nusa
Dua and busy Kuta.
Meet the locals
The fresh produce market at the northern end of Jalan Raya Seminyak,
known as Seminyak Market, is crowded, but the produce is fresh and
cheap. Stalls also sell popular cooked dishes found at roadside carts.
Chicken sate sticks, fried rice or noodles with spicy pastes and water
spinach tossed with chilli are usually economically served in small
plastic bags. Food plays a vital role in the many religious observances
on the Balinese Hindu calendar and Petitenget Temple is an important hub
for locals. By the beach, just off Jalan Petitenget, families make
daily offerings of fruit, rice and flowers to the well-preserved temple.
Book a table
Just a few minutes' walk from Seminyak Beach is the slick new restaurant and bar, Petitenget (www.petitenget.net;
00 62 361 4733 054). Modelled on a European bistro, it still has Asian
touches, not only in the design of the space but in the dishes, too. For
mains, there is the pan roasted red snapper fillet with prawn and
chicken laksa broth (118,000 rupiah/Dh44). Finish off with a Bali lime
and coconut meringue pie (55,000 rupiah/Dh21).
The serene Sarong (www.sarongbali.com;
00 62 361 4737 809) serves more traditional flavours in its two dining
pavilions. The ubiquitous chewy, rolled-up betel leaf is given a fresh
twist with a filling of raw tuna, lemongrass, shallots and lemon basil
(25,000 rupiah/Dh9). Or try the deep fried turmeric crispy fish (159,000
rupiah/Dh60). The restaurant is often booked, so plan ahead.
For a more casual meal, take a seat among the antiques, quirky
homewares and books (all for sale) at Biku (bikubali.com; 00 62 361 8570
888). There's great coffee, freshly baked cakes of the day (25,000
rupiah/Dh9), beef burgers (55,000 rupiah/Dh21) and classic Indonesian
nasi goreng - fried rice served with chicken sate, prawn crackers and
fried egg (40,000 rupiah/Dh15).
Shopper's paradise
With narrow roads packed with motorbikes and potholes marring the
footpaths, hire a driver to explore the boutiques around W Hotel on
Jalan Petitenget. Namu (namustore.com; 00 62 361 279 7524) has stunning
frocks and other chic necessities. For silver trinkets and local art,
head to the ever-changing assortment of stores on nearby Jalan Laksmana.
What to avoid
Denpasar International Airport is drab and tedious. Long lines often
form for the cash-only visa-on-arrival application and for customs. Hire
a service such as the Bali Concierge (www.thebaliconcierge.com;
00 62 361 766 880) to speed up the process. They'll meet you as you
step off the plane and handle all the paperwork and luggage issues at
prices starting at US$35 (Dh129).
Don't miss
Watching the sunsets over the ocean. In prime position by the beach is the architecturally loopy Potato Head Beach Club (www.ptthead.com; 00 62 361 473 7979), which has daybeds by the infinity pool as well as three restaurants.
Go there
Etihad Airways flies from Abu Dhabi to Bali international airport via
Kuala Lumpur in about 11 hours from Dh3,125 return, including taxes (www.etihad.com).
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